Three Essential Skincare Product Ingredients

Authors

  • Geeta Yadav, MD University of Toronto; Women’s College Hospital

Abstract

According to a 2022 MarketWatch report, the global skincare market is estimated at $63.8B USD ($86.5B CDN). This high market value is evidenced by the plethora of consumer products currently available in the retail sector. The skincare landscape is vast, with a greater number of products available than seen previously. A significant number of skincare products are launched on a monthly basis, purportedly containing novel ingredients, and making bold efficacy claims such as improved skin brightening, collagen regeneration and deep hydration.

The myriad number of skincare product ingredients from which to choose can lead to a sense of being overwhelmed and confusion on the part of patients regarding the actual effectiveness of any given skincare product. This sense of confusion is further compounded by the rapid increase in and broad distribution of skincare-related consumer content created by skincare influencers on social media, only 4% of whom are board-certified dermatologists. Although the majority of skincare social influencers are not, in fact, licensed dermatologists and may therefore not be qualified to disseminate skincare advice, nevertheless the clinical data demonstrates their ability to influence patients’ treatment decisions. Furthermore, when patients present their healthcare providers with treatment options they’ve sourced online, some of these providers may react negatively and be unwilling to explain the advantages and disadvantages of over-the-counter skincare treatments as an alternative to clinically-based solutions. These experiences may result in a sense of uncertainty on the part of patients regarding their providers’ recommendations.

For these reasons, it is critical for dermatologists to become aware of the skincare-related content their patients are researching online regarding treatment recommendations, particularly on the topic of ingredients contained in skincare formulations. It is the responsibility of healthcare providers to continue to educate patients, which will enable them to arrive at informed and well-researched decisions relating to their dermatologic health. This paper summarizes clinical evidence-based findings on three of the most popular ingredients currently utilized in consumer skincare products: niacinamide, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.

Author Biography

Geeta Yadav, MD, University of Toronto; Women’s College Hospital

Dr. Geeta Yadav is founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto. She is a board-certified dermatologist who trained at University of Toronto, Johns Hopkins and the Northern Ontario School of Medicine. Dr. Yadav is an expert in both medical and cosmetic dermatology with a large and growing medical practice that specializes in atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and skin cancer. She has a special interest in skin of color and has been quoted in numerous mainstream publications including the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Allure, Vanity Fair and Cosmopolitan. She has a regular presence on Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn and tries to use these platforms for education and awareness on a variety of topics.

References

https://www.marketwatch.com/press-release/cosmetic-skin-care-market-size-in-2022-is-touching-new-level-in-consumer-goods-sector-with-new-business-forecast-2022-to-2028-2022-10-25.

Ranpariya V, Chu B, Fathy R, Lipoff JB. Dermatology without dermatologists? Analyzing Instagram influencers with dermatology-related hashtags. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2020 Dec;83(6):1840-1842.

Smailhodzic E, Hooijsma w, Boonstra A, Langley DJ. Social media use in healthcare: a systematic review of effects on patients and on their relationship with healthcare professionals. BMC Health Serv Res. 2016;16 (1): 442.

Rupert DJ, Moultrie RR, Read JG, Amoozegar JB, Bornkessel AS, Donoghue AC, et al. Perceived healthcare provider reactions to patient and caregiver use of online health communities. Patient Educ Couns. 2014;96(3):320-326.

Fu JJJ, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, Li J, Marmor MJ, Bertucci V, Grimes PE, et al. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen. Br J Dermatol. 2010;162:647-654.

Soma Y, Kashima M, Imaizumi A, Takahama H, Kawakami T, Mizoguchi M. Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol 2005;44:197-202.

Draelos ZA, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8:96-101.

Grange, PA, Raingeaud, J, Calvez, V, Dupin, N. Nicotinamide inhibits Propionibacterium acnes-induced IL-8 production in keratinocytes through the NF-kappaB and MAPK pathways. J. Dermatol. Sci. 2009;56: 106–112.

Duncan KO, Leffell DJ. Preoperative assessment of the elderly patient. Dermatol Clin. 1997;15:583.

Oblong JE, Bissett DL, Ritter JL, Kurtz KK, Schnicker MS. Effect of niacinamide on collagen synthesis and markers of keratinocyte differentiation. Presented at: The 60th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2002; New Orleans.

Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Brit J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31.

Navarrete-Solis J, Castanedo-Cazares JP, Torres-Alvarez B, Oros-Ovalle, C, Fuentes-Ahumada, C, Gonzalez, FJ, et al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011:379173.

Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143:524-531.

Farris P., Zeichner J., Berson D. Efficacy and tolerability of a skin brightening/anti-aging cosmeceutical containing retinol 0.5%, niacinamide, hexylresorcinol, and resveratrol. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15:863-868.

Manela-Azulay M, Bagatin E. Cosmeceuticals vitamins. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27:469-474.

Zetterströ M R. Nobel Prize 1937 to Albert von Szent-Györgyi: identification of vitamin C as the anti-scorbutic factor. Acta Paediatr 2009;98(5):915-919.

Farris PK. Cosmetical Vitamins: Vitamin C. In: Draelos ZD, Dover JS, Alam M, editors. Cosmeceuticals. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology.

Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146.

Rhie G, Shin MH, Seo JY, et al. Aging- and photoaging-dependent changes of enzymic and nonenzymic antioxidants in the epidermis and dermis of human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol. 2001;117(5):1212-1217.

Shindo Y, Witt E, Han D, Epstein W, Packer L. Enzymic and non-enzymic antioxidants in epidermis and dermis of human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;102(1):122-124.

Chen L, Hu JY, Wang SQ. The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: a critical review. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2012;67(5):1013-1024.

Farris PK. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):814-817.

Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002:28:231-236.

Darr D, Dunston S., Faust, H, Pinnell S. Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreen as topical photoprotectants. Acta Dermato Venereologica, 1996;76: 264-268.

Draelos ZD. Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20:308-313.

Burke KE. Interaction of Vit C and E as better Cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20:314-9.

Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M, et al. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg. 2001;27(2):137-142.

Reed RK, Lilja K, Laurent TC. Hyaluronan in the rat with special reference to the skin. Acta Physiol Scand.1988;134:405-411.

Toole BP. Hyaluronan: from extracellular glue to pericellular cue. Nat Rev Cancer. 2004;4:528-539.

Gold, M. Use of hyaluronic acid fillers for the treatment of the aging face. Clin Interv Aging. 2007;2(3):369-76.

Presti D, Scott JE. Hyaluronan-mediated protective effect against cell damage caused by enzymatically produced hydroxyl (OHċ) radicals is dependent on hyaluronan molecular mass. Cell Biochem Funct. 1994;12:281-288.

Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: a key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4:253-258.

Stern R, Maibach HI. Hyaluronan in skin: aspects of aging and its pharmacologic modulation. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26:106-122.

Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust JF, Manfait M, Piot O. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy, Skin Res Technol. 2016;22(1):55-62.

Bravo B, Correia P, Gonçalves Jr. ME, Sant’Anna B, Kerob D. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: from literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatol Ther. 2022. Dec;35(12):e15903.

Reed RK, Laurent UB, Fraser JR, Laurent TC. Removal rate of [3H]hyaluronan injected subcutaneously in rabbits. Am J Physiol 1990;259:H532-H535.

http://www.atmo.arizona.edu/students/courselinks/fall16/atmo336/lectures/sec1/composition.html.

Osseiran S, Dela Cruz J, Jeong S, Wang H, Fthenakis C, Evans CL. Characterizing stratum corneum structure, barrier function, and chemical content of human skin with coherent Raman scattering imaging. Biomed Opt Express. 2018 Dec 1; 9(12): 6425–6443.

Kawada C, Yoshida T, Yoshida H, et al. Ingested hyaluronan moisturizes dry skin. Nutr J. 2014;13:70.

Niforos F, Ogilvie P, Cavallini M, Leys C, Chantrey J, Safa M, et al. A. VYC-12 injectable gel is safe and effective for improvement of facial skin topography: a prospective study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019;12:791-798.

Published

2023-03-01

How to Cite

1.
Yadav G. Three Essential Skincare Product Ingredients. Can Dermatol Today [Internet]. 2023 Mar. 1 [cited 2024 Nov. 23];4(1):30–34. Available from: https://canadiandermatologytoday.com/article/view/4-1-yadav

Issue

Section

Articles